Ammonia powder, also known as ammonium bicarbonate or baker's ammonia, has been used as a leavening agent in baking for centuries. This white, crystalline powder helps bake light and airy baked goods with an open crumb structure.
Ammonia powder was popular before the advent of baking powder and baking soda in the 19th century. It continues to be used in some traditional cookie and cracker recipes, although its strong ammonia scent takes some getting used to.
When exposed to heat, ammonia powder decomposes into gases including ammonia, carbon dioxide, and water vapor. These gases are responsible for the leavening power of ammonia powder. They expand when heated, helping to lift and set the structure of biscuits, cookies, and other baked goods.
How Ammonia Powder Works as a Leavening Agent
Ammonium bicarbonate is unique among leaveners in that it requires no acid or liquid to activate it. The release of gases begins once the temperature reaches about 40°C (104°F).
This quality makes ammonia powder well-suited for low-moisture baked goods. The limited water content allows for thorough evaporation of the ammonia gas released. In high-moisture batters like cakes, residual ammonia may dissolve, leaving an unpleasant chemical taste.
The main components of the chemical reaction are:
- Ammonium bicarbonate - This white, crystalline powder is the basis of baker's ammonia.
- Heat - Activation requires oven temperatures over 40°C (104°F) to begin breakdown.
- Ammonia gas - Released alongside carbon dioxide to provide leavening. Any residual ammonia impacts flavor.
- Carbon dioxide - Expands air pockets in the batter, leading to a light and crispy texture.
- Water vapor - Also contributes to leavening.
This unique single-component reaction means ammonia powder leavens baked goods faster than double-acting baking powder. The rate increases further in acidic environments.
So for biscuits, crisp cookies, and crackers that require a quick lift, baker's ammonia can provide very rapid leavening without extra ingredients.
Key Takeaway: Ammonia powder's leavening action starts when exposed to heat, without needing acid or liquid to react. Low-moisture recipes allow for full dissipation of gaseous ammonia.
Impact of Ammonia Powder on Baked Goods
Ammonium bicarbonate impacts baked products in several ways:
1. Leavening Effect
The main role of ammonia powder is to provide lift. The carbon dioxide and ammonia gases expand during baking, stretching cell walls in the batter.
This helps create an airy and crisp texture with an open crumb structure. The resulting cookies and crackers are lighter than those leavened with yeast products.
2. Browning
The alkaline nature of ammonia powder promotes enhanced browning through the Maillard reaction. This not only improves visual appeal but also allows for more complex, roasted flavors.
3. Preservation
Releasing ammonia gas increases total acidity over time. This helps prolong the shelf life of baked goods by preventing mold growth.
4. Flavor
Evaporation of gases like ammonia and carbon dioxide concentrates flavor. This effect helps produce richer tasting crackers and cookies.
However, any residual traces of ammonia will negatively impact taste and aroma. Batters should be low enough in moisture to permit complete evaporation in the oven.
High moisture batters will dissolve ammonia gas and leave a soapy or chemical aftertaste. Even in ideal low-moisture recipes, a faint ammonia smell may linger after baking.
Common Recipes Using Ammonia Powder
Baker's ammonia continues to be used in some traditional Northern European cookie recipes, including:
- Springerle - Traditional German anise-flavored Christmas cookies.
- Speculaas - Thin, very crisp, and flavorfully spiced Belgian cookies.
- Basler Brunsli - Swiss Christmas spice cookies.
- Leckerlee - Decorative German honey spice cookies.
- Krumkake - Paper-thin Norwegian cone-shaped cookies.
It also occasionally appears in cracker and puff pastry recipes, including:
- Brezel - Soft German pretzels.
- Salted crackers
- Cream puffs
Key details that make these recipes suitable for ammonia powder include:
- Low moisture - Limited water allows for evaporation of ammonia gas
- Cookies and crackers - Minimal batters prevent absorption of ammonia
- Spiced flavors - Help mask any residual ammonia aroma
Cakes, quick breads, and other high-moisture batters are not well-suited to the use of baker’s ammonia.
| Good Uses for Ammonia Powder | Poor Uses for Ammonia Powder |
|---|---|
| Low-moisture cookies and crackers | Moist cakes and muffins |
| Pretzels | Biscuits |
| Spice cookies | Pancakes |
Substituting Ammonia Powder in Recipes
Ammonium bicarbonate can be replaced with equal amounts of baking powder, although the chemical leavening action differs:
- Ammonia powder acts alone when heated.
- Baking powder requires liquid and acid to activate its double-acting properties.
So baking powder serves better as substitution in moist batters. An option is to use equal parts baking powder and baking soda. The added acid-base reaction between soda and powder produces gases faster to better mimic baker’s ammonia lift.
For recipes already containing baking powder or soda (like pancakes and cakes), simply omit the ammonia powder altogether. Leavening will continue to take place through the standard powder or soda.
Health Considerations With Baker's Ammonia
Ammonium bicarbonate is classified as Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) in the United States when used according to current Good Manufacturing Practices. Regulations help limit potential health risks.
Concerns with baker's ammonia include:
- Inhalation - Ammonia gas irritates lungs and mucous membranes
- Skin contact - Solutions above 5% can cause burns
- Ingestion - Significant oral consumption unlikely from baked goods
So while classified as GRAS, care should be taken during handling to prevent inhalation or skin burns. In baked goods, the low concentrations and evaporation during heating prevent major health risks.
Those with existing respiratory conditions like asthma should take extra care or avoid its use.
Key Takeaway: Baker's ammonia has GRAS status but can still pose inhalation and skin burn risks, especially in concentrated powder form.
Storing Ammonia Powder
As a volatile base, ammonium bicarbonate decomposes naturally in open air:
2 NH4HCO3 → 2 NH3 + 2 CO2 + 2 H2O
So storage is important to maintain potency as a leavening acid.
Keep ammonia powder in a sealed glass or plastic container, away from air exposure. An airtight container prevents moisture absorption that would lead to caking.
Store in a cool, dark place like the refrigerator or freezer. Low temperatures help slow decomposition.
Properly stored ammonia powder can last 6 months in the refrigerator or up to 3 years frozen. Any clumping, discoloration or faded ammonia smell means it’s time to replace it.
Key Takeaway: To maintain potency, ammonia powder requires storage in an airtight container in a cold environment away from air, light, and moisture.
FAQs
Is baker's ammonia the same as ammonia cleaning products?
No. Baker's ammonia is ammonium bicarbonate, a food-grade chemical leavener. Household and industrial ammonia cleaners contain significantly higher concentrations of gaseous ammonia dissolved in water.
What does ammonium bicarbonate taste like?
Ammonia powder itself has a salty, slightly bitter taste. In baked goods, it should ideally impart no flavor at all. Any residual ammonia aroma or chemical aftertaste means incomplete dissipation occurred during baking.
Can I use ammonia powder after its expiration date?
It's best to discard ammonia powder 1-2 years after the printed expiration date. Even if properly stored, the compounds can break down over time leading to reduced leavening power. Any clumping, discoloration, or loss of its signature ammonia scent means it should be replaced.
Is baker's ammonia vegan?
Modern ammonium bicarbonate production does not require animal products, making it suitable for vegans. Traditionally "hartshorn" was produced from deer antlers but this is no longer standard practice. Check ingredient lists to confirm no animal derivatives if following a vegan diet.
Why would a recipe use ammonia powder instead of baking soda or powder?
Baker's ammonia provides exceptionally quick leavening without needing acid or liquid to react. This unique property suits low-moisture doughs where rapid lift is desired. The lift also develops lighter textures with an open, crispy crumb not easily achieved with standard leaveners.
Conclusion
Ammonia powder offers a strong leavening ability that makes it well-suited for light, crispy baked goods like traditional low-moisture holiday cookies. It can enhance texture and browning more than standard baking soda or powder.
However, care must be taken to allow full evaporation of ammonia gas during baking. Any residue negatively impacts taste and aroma. Moist batters prevent dissipation and are poorly suited to substitution with baker’s ammonia.